How To Help Wolfies Fear of Storms

I thought that Wolfie was fine with our summer storms, but he is whining, panting, pacing, and just driving me crazy!  I try and comfort him, but it just seems to get worse!

Remember that I am always saying that we should not treat our dogs like humans?  Remember that I am always saying that we should treat our dogs like dogs?  Guess what!  You are treating him like a human, again.  

We have to understand that the sights, sounds, and even the drop in barometric pressure could be very strong negative stimuli on Wolfie.  This will cause him to become unsure and scared of what he thought was his safe environment.  Naturally, he comes to us to reassure his safety.  Here is where the problem begins.

When Wolfie comes to us, whining and getting under our feet, we instinctively go down and pet him and talk to him in a high, "baby voice" tone trying to sooth and console him.  If Wolfie would be our young son or daughter, that might work.  But Wolfie is a dog and he needs to reassured of his safety in a manner consistent by a strong, canine Alpha Leader.

Here is what you do in order to reassure Wolfie of his safety in a manner he requires:

When Wolfie comes to you, stand up, face him, and ask him to sit or lie down.   Give him a "good boy" when he does.  Continue with your work.  If he starts to whine again, stand up, face him, and give him a firm, low toned "No".  Ask him to sit again, praise him, and go on with your work.  

If Wolfie starts to whine again (what a persistent little guy!), take your leash, hook it on his collar, and briskly walk him around the room or the house.  Return to where you started, have him sit, and return to your work.  What you are doing is to correct and redirect Wolfie away from his perceived fear and to have him focus on you.

You are the boss and your appropriate presence should be all the reassurance he needs to maintain his safety.  As you are communicating with Wolfie, you are standing and facing him.  In the canine world, this is a sign of assertion and leadership.  

Give this a try and see how it works for you.  I have used this technique with our dogs for years and it works like a charm!  For more information, please contact The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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Help prevent and treat Canine obesity

Obesity is No Laughing Matter

Happy new year!  Tradition which dates back to the Colombia - British 153 dictates every 365 days or if you try to kick bad habits and begin their new life!  What kind of resolution did you this year?  It is likely because its already January 3, most people have already failed in what they wanted to accomplish.

I kicked accustomed to once a year commitments, there are many years each new year, but still me pining for the idea.  The idea is simple and magical. It is monitoring in this way takes determination and desire!

At the dawn of this new year I allows you to account for the impact of obesity on your furry friend.  Obesity is an epidemic not only with humans in our country, but in our pets.  We believe that, to the indulgence is a form of love and that is why we provide not only, but sometimes encourages indulgence in our animals.

Additional books a burden on virtually all organs of the body not only in ourselves, but our pets.   Overload of bodies often leads to disease and death.  Specifically obesity may lead to the:

Fat diabetes may be dead your DogDamage joints, bones and a decrease in pressure blood ligaments (especially in large dogs) cardiac diseaseIncreased (Yes dogs may also suffer from hypertension) anesthesia liver functionDifficulty breathingDecreased staminaHeat intoleranceIncreased riskDigestive disordersImmune dysfunctionSkin hair and layer problemsIncreased cancerDecreased quality and lifetime risks

I want that my best friend to be around as long as possible.  I want as his life to be full of fun and excitement.  I dont want to administer beatings of insulin or medications that can be avoided or to be shorten her life with every meal and to deal with.  During the indulgence of food has a price, and I am not prepared to pay with my friend lives.

Prevention

Power supply:

A normal healthy dog is always hungry!  This is how the wild dog adapted and survived, but this does not mean that your dog is hungry.  Dogs have different nutritional needs and the amounts of their lifetime.  Active young and dogs working dogs require more calories and protein than couch potatoes and older dogs.Recommendations on the back of the bag of dog food is prepared for an intact male working dog.  Most of us have no dogs that are intact (I hope) and certainly have no active test field, or police dogs.  If we can reduce the amount we use and recommend the bag.Food meals is an another easy way to reduce intake.  Just as we could deliver more if we take the set of tokens bag to snack in front of the TV, because were bored, your dog probably more indulges if food is excluded throughout the day.

Exercise:

Provide exercise!  Exercise has benefits for the heart and muscles and his mind!

Regulate her weight:

POP in for a veterinarian hello fast and weight verification!  This is a quick and easy way to make less traumatic vet visits and to maintain a healthy weight!

Limit or eliminate the treats:

I think thats treats to my advantage while training, however I adjust meal of my dog at the time of the meal if we had a big day by reducing the amount of food that I give.

Beginning of a weight loss program

If your dog is already more weight, it is time to consider a weight loss program here are the steps, you need to succeed.

Visit your veterinarian:

Certain medical conditions can cause gain weight in dogs, and as with humans doctor should evaluate your dog before starting an exercise regime.  Your veterinarian can help you determine a realistic goal weight and chronology.Normally, we recommend starting by measuring the amount, the dog was currently giving and depression by ¼.  We also recommend giving charges or frozen green beans (not preserved not because there is too much salt) as filler to help your dog to feel full.

Monitor progress:

Make a chart and monitor your success!

Ive found often difficult to maintain my own success when it comes to my relationship with food (although Im proud to announce the I am currently training for a half marathon).  I wish that someone could feed me in small doses and control my access to food!  But I control is what my dog eat and its capacity and access to exercise.  I think of it as a gift, I can give to him and myself, the long life of quality gift spent together!

So heres my challenge you for the new year to come, to choose something simple on living with your dog and change for the better.  Spend more time together, or swear some weight and exercise together!

View the original article here

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Dog Training Tips from Cooper City to Help Your Dog Eat His Food

Ideas to get Your Dog to Eat His Food

I was out at a Dog Training revisit this morning in Cooper City for a Coonhound that we haven’t seen for over seven years.  The dog had been doing great for a very long time until recently when a few things had changed in the family dynamics.  We took care of that pretty quickly (and that can be the topic of a future article).  The client then mentioned, “I just dont get it.  I spend more money on Mystie’s "holistic/good for you food" than I spend on myself.  I put the food down and she really isn’t interested in it.  I dont want to feed her the junkie food with all the additives, but I don’t want her to starve.  What can I do to get her to eat the healthy food?”

So many times we can relate our current experiences with things we have lived through in the past.  Lets think about our childhood and our mom serving us green beans.  If you are like me, there was no way I was going to take my fork and eat those green beans sitting on that plate.  But you know what?  If I mixed the beans in with some mashed potatoes and then put some melted butter on the top, I would eat them all day long.  I am not saying that we need to cover Mystie’s food in mashed potatoes and butter, but there is a way to enhance the food to make it more desirable.  There are things that we can add to Mystie’s food as “side dishes” that are healthy and will enhance the desirability of the entire eating experience.  Here is what Robin, my wife, adds to our dogs food and they just love:

• PUMPKIN PASTE.  Pumpkin is very healthy for dogs and is a great additive to the dry food.  It is a little hard to mix with the dry kibble, but a great, tasty treat for our dogs.
• LOW SODIUM CHICKEN BROTH.  Chicken is a healthy and light meat and the low sodium minimizes any additional salt added to their diet.  The moisture gives a pleasing smell to the dry food that our dogs love.
• COTTAGE CHEESE.  The wonderful aspect about cottage cheese is that it is so easy to mix up with the dry food.  The moisture that it adds helps take away the “dryness” of the kibble.  It is healthy and good for the dogs and what dog doesnt love cheese?  It is a true winner that we have been using for years for all six of our dogs.
• FREEZE DRIED RAW DOG FOOD.  Many experts are proponents of feeding dogs natural, raw food.  Although very healthy and rich with minerals and vitamins, it is just a pain to actually do.  You can now buy raw dog food in freeze dried form in many of the better dog food stores.  Put a few teaspoons of the food into a bowl, add a little water, and wait for about twenty minutes.  You now have a great, healthy treat that you can add to your dog’s food and he will love it.

Again, these are just some simple ideas to spice up your dog’s healthy diet.  The one thing that I want to emphasize is to not add wet dog food to your dog’s diet.  Although there are many good and healthy wet dog foods on the market, they all require you to brush your dogs teeth regularly.  Most of us just dont do that.  Our dogs teeth will then rot out early, causing health issues in their later years.

Try one or more of these options and I am sure you will find that your dog can’t wait for meal time.  As always, check with your vet regarding all your dog’s health and nutritional needs.  For more information about this or any dog training issues, please contact us at (954) 424-0170 or our web site at The Best Dog Trainers in Cooper City and South Florida.

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Travel Safety this Summer with Wolfie

Hey, it’s Summer Time and time to hit the road or air for our family vacation.  I think I know what to do to make sure Wolfie is OK, but I want to be sure…

Whether you travel by car, truck, plane or train, help ensure a safe and pleasant journey with your pet by taking these safety precautions:

General Travel Tips:

• No matter what your mode of travel, the single best safe practice you can employ to keep your dog safe during the journey is to keep him restrained.
• Affix current identification to your dog. Even better, have him micro chipped, which provides a permanent form of I.D. to help ensure he is returned to you if he becomes lost.
• Carry a recent photograph of your dog to make it easier for others to help you look for him if he gets lost during the trip.
• If your dog is prone to anxiety or motion sickness, consult with your veterinarian about using pet tranquilizers for your dog appropriate for the particular type of travel you will take.
• Feed your pet his usual meal one to two hours before travel. (If your dog is prone to motion sickness, feed him two to four hours before travel.) Do not give him food or water during travel as it may spill, forcing him to lie in a mess during the trip.

Cars and Trucks

• No matter how long or short the journey, your dog should be restrained. An unrestrained dog is dangerous to himself and others. He can become a flying projectile that can injure you, your passengers or himself.
• Secure your dog in the back seat (dogs riding in the front seat can be seriously hurt if the airbags deploy) with a pet travel safety harness or car seat, or in a pet carrier fastened to a seatbelt. If you drive an SUV, install a pet barrier to keep the dog in the back area of the vehicle as well as securing him in his harness and attaching it to the hooks in the floor.
• If you must transport your dog in the bed of a pickup, use a crate or carrier secured to the truck bed to prevent him from being thrown into traffic at a sudden stop.
• Do not allow your dog to ride with his head out the window. Road debris and other flying objects can injure his eyes.
• Before you set out on your journey and after arriving at your destination, give your dog plenty of exercise. This will help him be more relaxed and able to acclimate to his new surroundings.
• When stopping for a break and before you open the car door, attach a leash to your dog’s collar so he can’t escape. Even the most obedient pet can become disoriented when traveling. Always use a leash to walk your dog.
• On a long car ride, stop every four hours or so to allow your dog to relieve himself (be sure to clean up after him), stretch his legs, refresh himself with a small drink of water, and help him understand that he’s going to another environment.
• Watch for temperature extremes. Your car is like an oven under the blazing sun and a freezer in the bitter cold.

Airline or Train Travel

• Whether he will go in the cabin with you or in the cargo hold, your dog will need to travel in an airline (or train) -approved carrier.  Check the airline (or train line) website for requirements.
• If your pet will travel as cargo, check for restrictions on any health/immunization and other requirements.
• Use direct flights to avoid mix-ups during transfers or the possibility of delays in getting your pet off the plane.  Ask the airline if you can watch your pet being loaded and unloaded into the cargo hold.
• Upon arrival at your destination, open the carrier as soon as you are in a safe place, and then clip a leash on your dog so you can safely examine him. If anything seems wrong, get him to a veterinarian right away.

Follow these precautions and Wolfie will love your family vacation too.  For more information, please contact us at The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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What Does the Word STAY Mean to You

For my students, who know that pointing your finger at your dog to make him stay as you back away repeating the command only proves that your dog doesnt know how to stay ...

Stay

I pulled into the crowded parking lot at the local shopping center and rolled down the car windows to make sure my Labrador Retriever Pup had fresh air. She was stretched full-out on the back seat, and I wanted to impress upon her that she must remain there.

I walked to the curb backward, pointing my finger at the car and saying emphatically,

Now you stay. Do you hear me?

Stay! Stay!

The driver of a nearby car, a pretty blonde young lady, gave me a strange look and said,

Why dont you just put it in PARK?

Disclaimer: Dont leave your dog in alone in a car on a hot day! Dont leave the windows open with a large enough opening that your dog could escape from the car if he broke his stay.

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Puppy Training 2 Housetraining

So ... you dont want your puppy to soil in the house. In order to be successful, you should be able to describe the EXACT behaviors that you want your puppy to display with regard to elimination, and then TEACH your puppy how to perform those behaviors. What are the desired behaviors?

1. My puppy should eliminate only in the outside area that I have designated for him/her.


2. My puppy should ask to go out when s/he needs to eliminate.

How do we teach these behaviors? There are five basic guidelines for successful housetraining:

1. Restrict the puppy to a crate or cage when you cannot watch him or her closely. "CLOSELY" is defined as "with your eyes on him".


2. Feed the puppy at discrete times that fit your schedule. Do not leave food out all of the time. If you control what goes in and when it goes in, you have a better chance of controlling when it comes out!


3. While the puppy is very young, remove water after about 8:00 p.m. at night, but otherwise allow the puppy free access to water. Unnecessary restriction of water can contribute to obsessive water drinking in some dogs.


4. Take the puppy to the elimination area on a leash. Do not just dump the puppy out the back door to hopefully take care of business. You need to KNOW for certain whether your puppy has eliminated.


5. Reward the puppy with a small food treat as he completes each "job" and while the two of you are still in the elimination area. You must associate the positive reward with the behavior and the location.

Fortunately dogs have an instinctive desire to keep their nesting area clean. As any good breeder can tell you, young puppies that have an opportunity to freely move outside of the whelping box to eliminate will begin to do so as early as four weeks of age. To take advantage of your puppys natural desire to stay clean, purchase a cage or crate for your puppy that is just large enough for him or her to walk into, turn around, stand up and lie down. The crate should not be so large that the puppy can soil in one end of the crate and sleep in the other end of the crate. Many modern crates have adjustable dividers that you can use to adjust the size of the crate as the puppy grows. If you have an older crate without the divider, just find a cardboard box to place in the back of the crate to take up the excess room until your puppy grows a little bigger.

The crate should always be a "happy" place, so each time you place the puppy into the crate, give him a food toy to work on. Some good suggestions are beef shank bones filled with kibble moistened to a formable consistency or peanut butter, a rawhide chew, a nylabone, a kong stuffed treats and peanut butter or can squirt cheese, and other treat dispensing toys. For safety reasons, dont leave fabric or fabric stuffed toys in the crate when your puppy is unsupervised. While a crate may be used to temporarily remove an overstimulated puppy from a bad situation when you do not have time or energy to otherwise train the puppy, it should not be used for "time out", as that is an ineffective method for dealing with unwanted behaviors.

Put your puppy on his feeding schedule. Feed your puppy in the crate. About 15 - 30 minutes after his meal, put your puppy on a leash and take him directly to the elimination area you have chosen. Stay in the elimination area. Do not allow the puppy to pull you all over the yard. Each time the puppy eliminates, reward the puppy with a "Good Puppy!" and a bit of treat. Give your puppy about 5 -10 minutes to produce something. If he doesnt produce, take him BACK TO THE CRATE. Do NOT allow the puppy to wander loose in the house. Even if the puppy produced, it is not unusual for a puppy to have two bowel movements in quick succession following a meal. Dont hurry the process.

When your puppy has urinated at least once and has defecated at least once, you may bring the puppy into the house, but keep a leash or houseline on him and keep him in your sight. If you see signs that he is sniffing for a place to go, immediately gather him and take him outside to the elimination area. After 30 minutes - 1 hour, depending upon the age of the dog, return him to his crate for an hour or two, then repeat the process.

If you are housetraining your dog, then presumbably at some point in time you would like to allow your dog to move freely within the house. While that is a long-term goal, while your puppy is young, it is critical that you restrict the size of the area in the house in which he is allowed to wander. One of the most common mistakes in housetraining a puppy or dog is to allow the dog more freedom than s/he can handle during the early stages of his/her training.

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Separation Anxiety How Can I Help

Wolfie just goes nuts when I leave the house.  He barks and attempts to destroy everything.  The neighbors tell me that they think there is a "possessed being" in my house.  Is this "separation anxiety" and what can I do about it?

Separation anxiety is one of the most difficult issues to resolve in a dogs behavior.  It is brought about because of prior experiences as shelter or abused dog or lack of leadership in the current environment.  Over the coming months I will be discussing this in more detail, but, for now, lets get going on one thing we can do.

Wolfie and other dogs are very attuned to the sounds around them.  If their territory (home) sounds like everything is fine, they will feel that it is fine.  The way that they come to this conclusion is based on the "white noise" they are processing.  If they hear you doing the laundry or opening the refrigerator, everything is fine, Mommy or Daddy are home, no big deal.  If they dont hear this, they begin to increase their adrenaline and wonder where the rest of the pack actually are. 

Many people leave the TV on for their dogs as "white noise" for their being home.  This could actually be a negative thing if the TV is not always on.  Wolfie learns "A=B".  If the TV is on, you are not here.  Oh my gosh, I have to react to you not being here!  I will bark and destroy! (Just for your information, this is bad.)

We have an interesting solution.  Record about 30 minutes of daily household activities you would normally perform.  About 10 minutes before you leave, turn on the recording.  From this point until you leave, be very quiet.  Now, leave the house while your continuous loop recording continues to play.  

Wolfie now is focused on your natural noises and has been be redirected from your departure and his need to initiate separation anxiety.

This is only one of several things you must implement to successfully resolve Wolfies separation anxiety, but it is a start.  In the coming weeks, I will publish more articles that will assist you to resolve this problem.  For more information, please contact us at The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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The ONE THING You Dont Want To Do With Your Puppy

When I get a new puppy, what is the one thing I really should remember to never do?  There are so many things to remember and I know that I will probably get things wrong for a bit.  But, what is that "drop dead thing" I should remember from the very start?

Excuse me if todays training blog seems more like a sermon than training advise, but this is the one thing that Robin and I see from time to time that is almost impossible to fix.  The terrible thing about it is that it is not the dogs fault.

The picture at the top of this article shows a little boy pulling a puppys tail.  The puppy normally gives a little "yip" and squirms a bit.  The little boy thinks that is funny and does it over and over, day after day.  That activity might turn into throwing things at the puppy, hitting him with a toy, hiding him in a dark closet while banging the door, or poking him with a stick.  

When the puppy is small, it isnt a big deal if he barks or lunges at you, it could even be a little funny.  The problem is that the puppy will get bigger, many times much bigger.

You have now taught your dog that you (and most other humans) only want to harm him when they approach.  The only thing he can do is to lash out to try and protect himself.  Aggression, biting, and fighting are the natural tools that your dog has at his disposal to keep himself safe.  Remember, your dog doesnt want to do this, but you taught him that this is something that he MUST do.

The result of all of this is that you now have an aggressive dog that is a danger to you, your family, and the neighborhood.  To reverse this process requires a long period of deprogramming and re-socialization.  Nobody is safe while this process is underway and it is also very difficult to know exactly when you have been successful.  Sometimes, you will never be successful.  You have now written the death warrant for "who was supposed to be your best friend", and it didnt have to be that way.

NEVER PLAY ROUGH WITH YOUR PUPPY OR ANY DOG.

For more information, please contact The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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