Training a deaf dog Part 2

Having taught Simba the necessary commands to get him to “hear” us it was time to start training.

Simba is a powerful dog and he was dragging his owner all over the place. Even in a hearing dog this is common.

One of the reason a dog will drag someone on a line is that the dog thinks the line is a reason to play tug of war. Tug of war is more than just a game to a dog; it is actually a dominance test. If you ever watch two dogs tugging on a toy, the dog that gets the item the most often is the dominant dog.

So if you take your dog for a walk, and you let it drag you all over the place, then you are telling the dog it is higher in the pack than you. And a dog that is higher in the pack than you is not going to obey very well.

In Manners in Minutes training we use a training device called a Q bone. Invented by Pat Muller, this allows us to “nip” the dog without causing pain. And since nip is one of the three ways dogs correct each other, the dog is born knowing that a nip means NO.

In addition, a Q-bone on the dog’s collar acts as a stone in its shoe. The dog will tend not to let the device become a stone in their shoe and stops pulling on the line.

We placed a Q bone on Simba’s collar and started walking him on a twenty foot line.

We always start with a long line since to a dog, the farther away I am when I nip you, the more powerful a pack leader I am.

I gave Simba the sign for walking on a twenty foot line and off we went. As soon as he started walking with me, I gave him the “good” sign.

Simba walked ahead to check something to smell and in doing so, lost sight of me. Any dog, hearing or not, should always pay attention to you when hold the line, so I turned around and went another way. When I got to the end of the twenty foot line my momentum gave him a nip on his neck. He immediately turned to come with me and again I gave him the “good” sign.

Now it was time for Simba to learn that life has limits, so I started walking him towards his owner. Now since he likes her more than me he started going to her.

I stopped, and when Simba reached the end of the line, he nipped himself. He turned immediately and ran back to me. Again he was rewarded with praise via the “good” sign.

Pretty soon, no matter where I turned, Simba made sure the line was slack and was staying within twenty feet of me.

We then switched to a six foot line and again, Simba learned that when he was on a short line he could be six feet in front of me, beside me or behind me. But the line had to be slack at all times.

Now it was time for Simba to learn the rules also applied to Mom. And within a couple of minutes he was walking with her without pulling.

Simba was sent home for a week of practice. And his owner called me a day later to let me know that with each walk Simba was better on a line.

And I started planning his next set of commands.

To be continued….

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How to prepare to take your dog on a back packing trip

If youre planning on going on an extended hike or camp with the dog then you really want to put in the effort to making the necessary arrangements for life in the great outdoors. You will likely need to invest in the right equipment and supplies to make certain that the dog can be kept well and comfortable throughout the adventure. If you have one of the larger dog breeds you might wish to think about such supplies as the dog back packs to ensure they are able to help travel with some of the essential supplies.

Relying on the dog to carry some of the basics on your outdoor adventure

You are likely to find that a healthy dog equipped with the right type of dog back packs is easy able to carry a good deal of supplies when out in the wilderness. If you have a large dog breed for instance you are able to equip the backpack with supplies that may weigh in the region of a 25% of their body weight, which was on the larger dogs might mean 15 to 20-lbs. You might wish to fill the backpack with such supplies as extra food and water, and other essentials and that might be necessary for the particular type of trip you are participating in.

Making sure to train the dog to become accustomed to wearing the backpack

In order that your dog is able to take to wearing the pet back pack it will be necessary to give them some prior training, which should be done a good few months before you intend on starting on your outdoor adventure. If you are able to go through this early training with the help of dog training collars then this is certain to help the dog accept the backpack when it comes to being worn. It is likely that it will take a certain level of training before your four-legged friend is willing to accept wearing the backpack over the long-term.

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Puppy Training 2 Housetraining

So ... you dont want your puppy to soil in the house. In order to be successful, you should be able to describe the EXACT behaviors that you want your puppy to display with regard to elimination, and then TEACH your puppy how to perform those behaviors. What are the desired behaviors?

1. My puppy should eliminate only in the outside area that I have designated for him/her.


2. My puppy should ask to go out when s/he needs to eliminate.

How do we teach these behaviors? There are five basic guidelines for successful housetraining:

1. Restrict the puppy to a crate or cage when you cannot watch him or her closely. "CLOSELY" is defined as "with your eyes on him".


2. Feed the puppy at discrete times that fit your schedule. Do not leave food out all of the time. If you control what goes in and when it goes in, you have a better chance of controlling when it comes out!


3. While the puppy is very young, remove water after about 8:00 p.m. at night, but otherwise allow the puppy free access to water. Unnecessary restriction of water can contribute to obsessive water drinking in some dogs.


4. Take the puppy to the elimination area on a leash. Do not just dump the puppy out the back door to hopefully take care of business. You need to KNOW for certain whether your puppy has eliminated.


5. Reward the puppy with a small food treat as he completes each "job" and while the two of you are still in the elimination area. You must associate the positive reward with the behavior and the location.

Fortunately dogs have an instinctive desire to keep their nesting area clean. As any good breeder can tell you, young puppies that have an opportunity to freely move outside of the whelping box to eliminate will begin to do so as early as four weeks of age. To take advantage of your puppys natural desire to stay clean, purchase a cage or crate for your puppy that is just large enough for him or her to walk into, turn around, stand up and lie down. The crate should not be so large that the puppy can soil in one end of the crate and sleep in the other end of the crate. Many modern crates have adjustable dividers that you can use to adjust the size of the crate as the puppy grows. If you have an older crate without the divider, just find a cardboard box to place in the back of the crate to take up the excess room until your puppy grows a little bigger.

The crate should always be a "happy" place, so each time you place the puppy into the crate, give him a food toy to work on. Some good suggestions are beef shank bones filled with kibble moistened to a formable consistency or peanut butter, a rawhide chew, a nylabone, a kong stuffed treats and peanut butter or can squirt cheese, and other treat dispensing toys. For safety reasons, dont leave fabric or fabric stuffed toys in the crate when your puppy is unsupervised. While a crate may be used to temporarily remove an overstimulated puppy from a bad situation when you do not have time or energy to otherwise train the puppy, it should not be used for "time out", as that is an ineffective method for dealing with unwanted behaviors.

Put your puppy on his feeding schedule. Feed your puppy in the crate. About 15 - 30 minutes after his meal, put your puppy on a leash and take him directly to the elimination area you have chosen. Stay in the elimination area. Do not allow the puppy to pull you all over the yard. Each time the puppy eliminates, reward the puppy with a "Good Puppy!" and a bit of treat. Give your puppy about 5 -10 minutes to produce something. If he doesnt produce, take him BACK TO THE CRATE. Do NOT allow the puppy to wander loose in the house. Even if the puppy produced, it is not unusual for a puppy to have two bowel movements in quick succession following a meal. Dont hurry the process.

When your puppy has urinated at least once and has defecated at least once, you may bring the puppy into the house, but keep a leash or houseline on him and keep him in your sight. If you see signs that he is sniffing for a place to go, immediately gather him and take him outside to the elimination area. After 30 minutes - 1 hour, depending upon the age of the dog, return him to his crate for an hour or two, then repeat the process.

If you are housetraining your dog, then presumbably at some point in time you would like to allow your dog to move freely within the house. While that is a long-term goal, while your puppy is young, it is critical that you restrict the size of the area in the house in which he is allowed to wander. One of the most common mistakes in housetraining a puppy or dog is to allow the dog more freedom than s/he can handle during the early stages of his/her training.

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Dog Training money back guarantee

A few nights ago I had to stop for a couple of cans of dog food. I feed a good kibble but always add a small amount of canned dog food as kibble does not have enough fat for a dog’s diet.

Usually I buy my supplies from an independent (non chain) pet store here in Colorado Springs. This guy is awesome, knowing how to match dogs to food by breed. The best food for one breed may not be the best for another, and this guy is a pro. I send all my clients to him and have had a lot of problems cleared up just by getting a dog on the right food.

But he is all the way across town and was closed by the time I finished here in the center. There is one of the large pet supply chains that is not too far out of my way so I go there when I have to.

I don’t like going there. That is because of one of their “trainers” knows me on sight. This person was at a dog show I had a booth at a couple of years ago. Although this person did not talk to me they did stand there while I explained Manners in Minutes to someone else. I remembered this person because I have a great memory for faces, a survival skill left over from my police days.

Whenever I go into this store this trainer makes a point of running me down to let me know how great the store’s training method and trainers are. I am not that impressed. First it is hard to be in awe of someone who has “trainer” on their smock but every time I see one of them they are either stocking shelves or running a cash register. Secondly my office is bigger that their training area. And third their method is food based training which I have explained my views on elsewhere on this blog.

I did not see this trainer (I also still have my surveillance skills) so I went in. As I walked in I glanced at their board for training. I saw, handwritten, “guaranteed money back dog training.”

My first reaction was “Huh.” Why would they do that? How can you guarantee training? Either you can train a dog or you can’t. If you can’t then you should not take the dog and its owner as a client.

You aren’t selling a washing machine. If you sell someone an appliance and you give them their money back you get the appliance back. But if you sell someone a skill, you can’t take that back.

Then I thought is their training so poor that they need to refund money to keep people from being angry at them? And then I knew the answer, it is marketing.

Dog training is approached differently if training is not your main product. If I owned a chain of stores that sold a variety of products then I would know that training is not going to make or break my business. Due to the high cost of prime retail space, every square foot has to produce income. Since training will never produce the income per square foot the sales of supplies, toys, equipment, and all the other things I sell I can’t afford to use a lot of space. And too keep the price of training down I am not going to pay my trainers a lot.

So since training is not going to be a large source of profit, why bother? And the answer is the marketing plan behind chain store training. The reason is repeat business.

Over a lifetime you are going to spend a lot of money on food, treats and toys. You are also going to need an occasional replacement for a bed, or collar, or line, or something else. By getting you to train in the chain store, they build a relationship and you get in the habit of coming regularly to my store. Then they make their profit from those sales, not training.

So does this affect the quality of the training? I think so.

First since I want to get you to come into my store as often as possible, and I have to keep my costs down, I have to do group training.

Group training has both advantages and disadvantages. For someone training with a dog for the first time I think the disadvantages outweigh the advantages. In any group there is one dog that needs more work than any other dog. That dog will take up a disproportionate amount of the hour session. Also there is usually one human who also takes (often demands) more time than anyone else. And usually they are together. So if you are one of six people with a dog, odds are you won’t get an even share of the instructor’s time and effort.

Due to the cost of space, training spaces in these classes tend to be small. Not every dog is going to get along with every other dog, at least at the beginning. The smaller the training area, the greater the danger that someone can get bit. So you keep your dog on a short tight line. A short tight line tells the dog you are worried. The dog figures that if you are worried, it should be worried too. So you and the dog spend too much time worrying and not enough training. Also small training areas limit the amount of movement you can do with the dog and increases the danger when you are concentrating on the command that another dog will successfully go after your dog or you.

I always wonder about the quality of the trainers. This is not a hard business to get into. Many people with good training skills start by having group sessions at the park. There are a number of issues with this choice, but I think it is better than working in too small a space. If you can’t afford to open a training center, which are usually located where rents are lower, you can start there and then move up. But either way you are going to do better financially than working in the chains.

So who is left in the labor pool since each store has a trainer? Often it is someone who doesn’t mind stocking shelves and running a cash register in order to train. Or is it someone who doesn’t mind training in order to have a job or to make a little more than someone who is just a clerk? While I do not doubt there are some very good trainers in a few of these stores, I do doubt that all of them are equally good.

As for the training itself, the training method must not offend anyone in any way. So this training has to be food motivation. I stay away from food training for one simple reason, it is hard for someone training a dog for the first time to tell the difference between motivation and bribery. Most clients err on the side of over using food. And they end up with a fat dog that won’t do anything if you don’t have a cookie in your hand.

And what could happen if I go to one of these places, have the training not work, get my money back, and go somewhere else? It could be nothing bad, or it could make things worse.

To me there are two possible outcomes. If you have an easy dog, one that has not developed strong habits and/or major alpha drive, then this may be all the training you need. An easy dog does not need that strong a trainer, provided you are working the dog on your own.

If the training works then well, most of them teach several different classes so you can continue on to get to whatever level you need. This often leads you to spend a lot more, and you are going to go to more than one six to eight week course. So you may spend 18 weeks or more to train the dog. And if you miss a class, then your dog does not learn everything or is automatically behind.

If you have a dog that already has the more serious problems this kind of training does not work well for you, then even if you get your money back, you have spent your time for little or no results. However you have also convinced the dog that it does not have to respond to training making your task all the more difficult if you go to someone else. You can get your money back, but not your time, and you may now have an even more difficult dog.

My advice, don’t automatically discount this training. But just like any other trainer, before you sign up, go watch that trainer train. That way you are making an informed decision.

Does Pikes Peak Manners In Minutes have a money back guarantee? No. First of all you are not going to start training here until you have come in for a free consultation. And I strongly discourage from signing up until you have had some time to think things over. If you don’t understand what I do and how I do it, or if you are not comfortable with me or the system, this is not going to work well. On the other hand if it is for you, then success is just a matter of us both doing our part.

The other week I had someone come in for an evaluation. At the end she asked if I had a money back guarantee. I told her no. She asked why. I told her I never had a dog fail in here, but I had had people fail.

She never called back. Sadly I don’t think chain store training will work with her dog. It had too many problems. But at least she could get her money back.

Doug

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