Potty Training When You Are Away For A Long Time

I am in the middle of potty training my four month old puppy and things are going relatively well when I am home.  When I go to work, I can’t always get home at lunch to take him out.  What can I do to make sure that I don’t mess up the training when I have to be gone a long time?

We have a good number of clients who get new puppies and then have to leave them while they go to work.  The mistake that most of them make is to either leave them in their crate or give them the run of the house.  The problem is that their little puppy physically can’t hold it for the time they are left alone.

Let’s first talk about what you are doing wrong and then discuss what you should correctly do…

Leaving your puppy in the crate for an extended period of time is wrong.  Dogs naturally don’t want to go to the bathroom in their crate.  They see the crate as their den and they don’t want to leave their scent there because it might “draw in their enemies”.  They also don’t want to go to the bathroom on themselves because of the same reason.  Because of this, they will try to hold it as long as possible.  If you are gone longer that they can hold it, they will reluctantly toilet on themselves and in their crate. 

If you continually force them to toilet in their crate, their drive to try and hold it while they are in there will diminish and eventually disappear.  Since you use the crate as a place where they do not toilet, you have eliminated an important potty training tool.

Letting the puppy out in the entire house or an extended portion of the house while you are gone a long time is also bad.  Since you are away for a period of time that is longer that your dog can hold it, he is naturally going to toilet somewhere.  The key word here is “somewhere”.  Sometimes it is very hard or impossible to find where your puppy has toileted while you were away.  When this happens, your puppy has left the smell of a toilet somewhere in the house.  If it smells like a toilet, it must be a toilet.  This smell will constantly entice your puppy to return to that spot to go to the bathroom. 

Here is what you should do if you are going to be gone from the house and you know your puppy will probably go to the bathroom:

• Pick a small room with a tile or linoleum floor such as a laundry room or bath room. 
• Pick up all the items that your puppy might destroy.
• If there is access to any “inappropriate area” such as behind the washer, block that access.
• Clean the floor with a mild cleanser such as Lavender Fabuloso.
• Cordon off the room with a doggie gate that your puppy can’t knock over, climb over, or jump over.
• Place some toys, his bed, and a small amount of water & food in the room.
• Place a wee-wee pad in the room. (Entice him to go in that area but not require him.)

Put your puppy in that room when you leave.  You have now confined him to a comfortable area that you can manage once you return.  The important thing here is that you are not diminishing the importance of the crate or possibly creating an “invisible toilet” (as noted above).

When you return home you can remove him from this area.  If he has gone on the wee-wee pad, simply pick that up and throw it away.  If he has gone anywhere else in the enclosed area, simply clean that up with an appropriate cleanser.  Close the door to this room and do not allow him in the room except when you are going out for an extended period and you have appropriately set it up for his use (mentioned earlier).

What we have established here is a “time out” in the potty process.  Your goal is to maintain the importance of the crate and not to have the house smell of urine.  You have created a place that he can go, if necessary.  Since he is not allowed in this area except during long absences by you, this will have a minimal impact on your potty training process.  As always, if you have any questions, please be sure to contact us at TheBest Dog Trainers in South Florida

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Wolfie is Protective of His Food and a Little Aggressive

It is kind of strange.  Wolfie is normally a great dog, but sometimes he gets protective and aggressive with his food.  I dont want this to continue because I dont want anyone go get hurt by mistake.  What can I do to help Wolfie over this?

Aggression with any animal is not a great thing.  The good news that we can offer with canine food aggression is that we have a clear set of actions that can be taken to minimize or eliminate this issue.  We first have to think about the reasons Wolfie might be food aggressive and/or possessive.  

If Wolfie was a stray or a rescue, that could naturally cause possessive aggressive actions regarding food.  In this case, his food was a limited resource that was critical to his safety and health.  Naturally, he would act in such a manner to protect such an asset.  If Wolfie was starved intentionally or through neglect, that could also be a cause for his aggressive and/or possessive attitude towards food.  In this instance, the root cause could stem from poor nutrition.  

So what can we do to alleviate Wolfies food aggression?  There are several actions that you can immediately perform.  Lets discuss some of them now:

• Be sure you are the one who decides when mealtime will take place.  If Wolfie can boss you into feeding him when he wants, he will not see you as the sole provider of the food.  He will not recognize that you are not the one responsible for his well being.
• Try scatter-feeding Wolfie.  Take his food and scatter it on the ground or in the yard.  He now is focused on grazing across a large area and not protecting an exact spot.  Hide some food behind a chair or under a plant so that it will take extra time to find it.
• Teach Wolfie basic obedience such as "leave it", "stay", and "wait".  Exercise these commands during feeding time or even when giving him a little treat.  This will direct Wolfies focus to you as the provider of food.  It will also direct him to wait until you allow him to take the treat or have his dinner.
• If you need Wolfie to move away from his food, never directly approach him and his food bowl.  This is a naturally aggressive act and might trigger Wolfie to respond. Call Wolfie to you.  You are redirecting his attention to you and when Wolfie responds, you are enforcing that you are his care giver.  The food is not as important as obeying you.
• If needed, use the leash when feeding.  This will help you redirect him away from the food, if needed, without becoming physical.
• Never feed Wolfie in a corner.  This limits his options if anyone approaches him and also heightens any aggressive or protective tendencies he still may have.
• If you have multiple dogs, feed them separately until you can resolve the food issue.  Introduce them back together one at a time.  Always be present and between them to assure them that you are the provider and you will guarantee that they all have the nutrition they need.

When there is an issue with any form of canine aggressive/possessive behavior, the important point is to take it slow.  You are setting the scene to allow Wolfie to come to the conclusion that everything is fine and he is safe.  He needs to learn this at his own pace and in an environment where he has the ability to learn.  This is not set on a specific time table.

If you need additional information on anything we have discussed, please feel free to go to our web site for more information or to gain our direct contact information: South Florida Dog Trainers. 

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Dog Training Tips for Potty Training and Food Management

Dont you just love it when there is a free buffet? Guess what? Your little puppy loves it too...

One of the most common errors that our clients make when attempting to potty training their puppy is food management. They leave the puppy’s water and food bowls down and available to the puppy all day long.  With this said, they wonder why their puppy is going to the bathroom all over the place at different times.

Except for health reasons (consult your vet) or hydration reasons (it is really hot, your puppy is playing like a crazy dog), you don’t need to leave his water and food bowls down filled with food and water for him all day long. The one exception to that is in regards to the special needs of a young puppy and water.  We will get to that in a second.

Many times a puppy will drink or eat out of boredom.

"I have nothing to do. Look! There is a bowl of water! I think I will wonder over there and have some water..."

This leads to the puppy over eating and over drinking. They will go to the bathroom more frequently with less predictability.

So here is what you do:

Put the food and water down at meal time and then pick it up when the meal is done. I normally like to leave the bowls down for about 30 minutes. This will allow you to clearly manage the amount of intake and the time of intake. 

Now, let’s discuss the water and special hydration needs of a young puppy.  What I want you to do is to pour the water out of the water bowl and then to refill it with about ¾ inch of water (this is about the thickness of one of your fingers).  Put the water down for him and manage it.  Check the water every 90 minutes.  If he has consumed all the water, wait for 30 minutes and then give him another ¾ inch of water.

What we are accomplishing here is to manage when our puppy eats and drinks.  If we know when he eats and drinks, we can have a far better idea when he will need to go to the bathroom.

Please note: This is only part of the Potty Training process, contact Bruce and Robin Edwards for complete Puppy Potty Training Information at The Best DogTrainers in South Florida.

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Is It OK For Wolfie To Be In Bed With Me

I hear all these different things about having Wolfie on the bed with me or it is bad having him on the bed with me.  I would really like him to sleep with me, but would that be sending some sort of bad message?

As dog trainers, we hear this kind of question all the time with all sorts of home grown explanations regarding pros and cons to your dog being on the bed.  The bottom line is it is up to you.  If you dont want him on the bed, you will have a standing rule that Wolfie is not allowed on the bed.  Every time he attempts to get on the bed, you will correct him and guide him off.  

If you would like to have Wolfie on the bed with you, you should take the following items into consideration:

• If Wolfie is currently showing signs of aggression or heightened dominance, you should not allow him on the bed until he has been properly trained to minimize or eliminate these traits.
• If Wolfie is still undergoing potty training, he should not be allowed on the bed.  Even if he has been "holding it all night" while he has been in his crate, you shouldnt  allow him on the bed.  When Wolfie is in his crate, he becomes and remains calmer with a reduced metabolism.  This will allow him to hold it longer.  When he is on the bed with you, his excitement will naturally be greater along with his metabolism.  This will decrease his length between potty times and could possibly cause an accident on your sheets.  (Not good!)
• If Wolfie nips or growls when you ask him to move or get off the bed, his bed privileges are revoked.  You can train this "out of him" by:
• Put a leash on him when he is in bed.
• When you want him off the bed, you must stand up and get out of bed.
• Grab the end of the leash and give him the command "Off".
• If he doesnt jump off, tug the leash slightly until he gets off.
• Tell him "Good Puppy" for obeying you.
• Never play rough with Wolfie while you and he are in bed.   This will simply cause him to believe he can play rough with you on the bed at any time. 
• Never eat in the bed with Wolfie.  Since you and he are at the same level, this could send the wrong message to him that the food is for both of you.
• Check Wolfie for fleas and ticks every few days.  You dont need these in your bed.
• Bathe Wolfie more often than usual.  You dont want your bed to get a "doggie smell".

Again, it is up to you if you want to invite Wolfie on your bed with you.  We have four dogs and three of them sleep on the bed with us.  Our fourth dog is too old to get on the bed, so he sleeps on the floor by my side.

For more information, please contact us at The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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MiM Seminar in VA is happening

  I am pleased to let you know that the Manners in Minutes seminars in Virginia will be September 29th and September 30th.  The seminars will be at Hollybriar Farm in Lanexa Virginia, near Willamsburg.  Our host will be Pat Rock who breeds Lakeland Terriers and American Staffordshire Terriers.

    Saturday the 29th I will be training a rescue dog, with serious issues, in the Manners in Minutes system.  This will allow you to see how this awesome method works.  I will take the dog through all the basic commands.  The six hour seminar includes lunch and plenty of time to answer your questions.

    You will also get a copy of my workbook, which will allow you to use the demonstrated methods to train your dog in Manners in Minutes.

    Sunday will be a six hour workshop where I will be working with a number of dogs and going over:

         Imprinting puppies to prepare them for their new homes.
         Dealing with Fear Aggression
         Dealing with shyness and skittish behavior
         Bolting
         Seperation Anxiety
         Manners in Minutes in Conformation and other events.

   This session also includes lunch and plenty of time to answer questions.

   For more information contact
Pat Rock
804 843 2787 or
757 871 0292

   Or you can get a copy of the flier by e mailing me a ppmim@qwestoffice.net

Hope to see you there.

Doug

 

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Your Dog and Your Family The Dynamics

My Uncle and I both got puppies from the same breeder at the same time.  When we got them, they both appeared to be just alike.  Now, my Uncles 1 year old Terrier is as calm as calm can be.  Wolfie, his brother, is just a complete crazy nut.  What happened?

The answer is pretty simple, but sometimes the simple things are the hardest to recognize.  From our experience in training over 2,000 doggies in South Florida, family dynamics has a great deal to do with how they are going to act.

If the family is made up of older adults who are normally calm and lead structured lives, their doggie will normally be calm and sedate.  If the family lives an active lifestyle, has children who love to play and chase them, and are always having friends and neighbors over, they will probably have a more active, social, engaging, and (sometimes) annoying doggie.

Remember the old saying, "You are what you eat"?  Our doggies will often adjust to our environment so they "Are who we are".  Since most people are just fine with their calm, well behaved, and sedate doggies, let me focus on some times for the crazy, annoying doggies:

• Dont go nuts with Wolfie in the house.  He will get used to chasing you, barking, jumping, and stealing things from you in the house all the time.  He doesnt understand that he cant do it all the time and will find the most inopportune time to display these annoying traits (that you actually taught him).
• Be sure to find at least 30 minutes every day to play and go nuts with Wolfie in the back yard or any large, enclosed area.  Throw the Frisbee, toss tennis balls, scatter feed, or do anything else that gets him engaged and drains the adrenaline.  Do not play games that might encourage general bad behavior such as tug-of-war, chase-me chase-me, or jump-on-me with him.
• Have your children pet Wolfie calmly by stroking him from the back of his head to the middle of his neck.  This is a very calming and soothing experience for Wolfie.  It also teaches your kids and Wolfie how they can engage each other without going nuts.
• Ask your guests to ignore Wolfie for the first few minutes when they come over.  Wolfie sees your guests entering the house as "new playmates" and will almost instantly engage them by barking and jumping.  Have them ignore Wolfie so he will understand that his behavior is inappropriate.  After a few minutes after Wolfie has calmed down, they can then engage in calm interaction in the house or they can go outside and play fetch, etc.

The main focus here is to manage Wolfies adrenaline through your example.  If you are calm with Wolfie, you will not encourage a spike in his adrenaline that leads to the annoying crazy stuff.

If you have more questions, we would be more than happy to provide additional information.  You can contact us through our web site at South Florida Dog Trainers.

   

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Veterans Can Now Apply For Assistance With Service Dog Expenses

http://www.armytimes.com/news/2010/04/military_servicedog_benefits_042710w/

This is an important announcement in regards to Veterans of the Armed Forces that have service dogs, or may benefit from the use of a service dog.

There has been a push for the Department of Veterans Affairs to be more "service dog friendly," as having a service dog is a great substitute for medications in a lot of cases where depression or Post Traumatic Stress Disorder is an issue. However, its important to remember that a dog that is used to "make you feel better" is NOT considered a service dog; that is a therapy dog, and is not afforded the same public access rights as a service dog.  A service dog MUST be "individually trained to perform certain tasks for the benefit of the disabled person." So, just being there to make one feel good is not considered a task.  Just something to remember.

I think it is crucially important for the VA healthcare system to become more service dog friendly, and support Veterans that use service dogs. A lot of doctors continue to push medications for a lot of ailments, and sometimes, the use of a service dog can have a great impact on the amount of medication someone needs to take, but not always.

There are several articles online, such as the one above that discusses this fairly new benefit for Veterans. I think ALL Veterans that use service dogs, should apply for this benefit! This new benefit essentially provides some compensation for those Veterans that use service dogs, in helping with costs associated with keeping a service dog.

Please look into this, and if you are a Veteran with a service dog, please go to your nearest VA hospital and apply for this benefit.

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More Quick Tips When Walking Your Puppy

There are so many things I have to remember when walking my puppy.  What is a quick safety tip that I could be overlooking?

Down here in South Florida it is hot and humid most of the year.  Because of this, we have a lot of standing water and mold.  Little puppies love to sniff and lick just about anything.  The one thing you dont want them to do is to ingest mold and run the risk of stomach infections, loose stools, or even worse.  Here are a few, simple suggestions you might employ while walking your little puppy, Wolfie:

• Always be aware of your environment and avoid standing water or really dirty sidewalks.
• Walk at a brisk pace and stop only when you think it is safe for Wolfie to sniff and just be a puppy.
• Dont just blindly look off into the distance when you are walking.  Always keep your eye on Wolfie to make sure he is keeping his nose and mouth off the ground.
• Walk Wolfie on a short leash.  This takes away a great deal of the opportunity for him to get into trouble.  It also make is easier for you to keep him in control.

Always be observant of Wolfie when you are home.  If you see he is having loose stool, becomes listless, or his eating habits change, give your Veterinarian a call right away and discuss the problem.  It is our responsibility to keep our little puppy safe for his entire life and part of that is just being a smart and observant leader.  For more information, please contact us at The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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To the Woods for the Holidays with your Dog

It is really great to get away from it all and enjoy the Holidays in a warm cabin in the hills.  The air is brisk, the snow is fun, and you have more than enough time to enjoy all the stuff in the forest.  But what about your dog?  This is something new for him.  What do you do to make sure that he will be happy and safe?

If you live in a warm climate like South Florida, you will understand that it never really gets cold down here.  Because of that, our dogs don’t really experience what “cold really is”.  If you are planning a trip to a “winter cabin in the hills”, you should properly prepare for your dog’s well being in the woods.  Here are some ideas:

• Don’t have your dog’s hair cut before you go.  The long hair will help keep him warm in the cold air.
• If you are in snow, make sure that you dry him off when you come back inside.  You don’t want him to stay wet and possibly become sick.
• (Even though I normally don’t recommend this), get doggie sweaters, especially for your little dog.  Warmth is always critical and we want to assure that they maintain their body heat.  Do not leave the sweaters on in the cabin.
• Be aware of how long he is outside.  Remember, it is cold!
• Always have your dog on a leash or long lead while you are out of the cabin.  You never know if he will just take off after something.  Since he is not familiar with the surroundings or possible creatures in those surroundings, this could put him in danger.
• Before you take him for walks, follow the path you will take by yourself.  Check the area out for any poisonous plants, prickly bushes, animal tracks, etc.  As I mentioned earlier, always walk him on a leash and take a walking stick in case you need to ward off any creature.
• Be sure to take enough food to last the entire trip.  You may not find a dog food store up in the hills.  Having to switch food could cause stomach issues and potty problems.  That is one thing you don’t want in your rented cabin.
• Take his crate and toys.  This will allow you to keep him in his “happy place” when you need to be away from the cabin without him.
• Be sure to actively schedule play time with him.  You are up in the beautiful hills and your time might just get away from you.  You don’t want to leave him alone in your cabin all day, every day.  Make sure you plan your outward excursions in such a way that you will be back at the cabin multiple times during the day for play and bonding time.  If you can take him with you on your outings, even better!
• Go on the internet and find the name of a local vet.  Call them to confirm their office hours.  If possible, get your dog’s chart from your local vet.  In case something happens while you are in the hills, it is better to be safe than sorry.

These are some of the steps we have taken when we go up in the hills with our four dogs.  They absolutely love the mountains and the fresh, brisk air.  If you have any questions, please contact us immediately so we can help.  You can get us at The Best Dog Trainersin South Florida. 

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Dog Training Tips for Bad Behavior At The Door and Guests

Quick things you can do every time someone comes to the door and your dog displays bad behavior.

I was at a dog training session in Cooper City last week and we were just finishing up the session.  We had covered everything the client had on his wish list for that day and everything was just great.  As I got up to leave, a friend came to the front door and rang the door bell.  His dog went completely nuts.  He ran to the front door before we could even stand up, barking and jumping at the door like a crazy person.  I told the client that we had something else to work on…

What we first must understand is that just about all dogs are excited when new people are coming into the house.  This is not always a bad thing because our dog’s action can also act as a defensive/protective mechanism to an unwanted situation. What is important is that we are not embarrassed when anyone enters our house because they are jumped on, licked, and generally harassed the unruly dog. The best way to accomplish this is to nip it at the bud. Here are some tips that I have given my clients over the years:

• Put your dog on a leash. As your guests’ arrival time approaches, make sure that your dog fully engaged with toys or other distractions.
• Play with your dog outside for 30 to 45 minutes before your guests arrive.  This will help get the “excitement out of him”.
• As soon as you hear the doorbell or you get a call from the front gate, grab your dog’s leash by first putting you foot on the handle.  Then, calmly reach down and pick up the handle.  Have your dog sit next to you.
• Once you hear your guests at the front door, make sure your dog is still in a sit position.  Calmly command him to walk with you and go to the front door.  Have him sit again.
• Open the door and greet your guests. If your dog starts to become unruly or leaves the sit position, correct him and place him in the sit position.
• If your dog is still unruly, ask your guests to stay at the door for a moment.  Walk your dog around the room and have him focus on you.  Once he is calm, walk back to your guest and place your dog in a sit position.
• Have a short conversation with your guests while maintaining a close watch on your dog.
• Walk with your guests and dog into the house and to the area where you will be spending your time.  If the dog does not show signs of excitement or misplaced focus, calmly drop the leash.
• If your dog begins to go crazy again, pick up the leash (method described about), walk around for a moment or two until he is calm, and drop the leash.

You are teaching your dog is to be calm when you are meeting guests. The leash serves as a simple, non-physical training aid for you to direct your dog to make the right decision. It also allows you to be consistent in your management of him.  This is how your dog learns and how he associates leadership.

For more information on this subject or any dog training issue, please contact The Best Dog Trainers in Cooper City and South Florida.

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Make Time for Doggie!

With the Holidays upon us and all the extra things taking up my time, I just don’t have as much time to spend with Wolfie.  Is this going to cause a problem or can I just make it up by getting him a bunch of great gifts?

First thing, you can’t bribe dogs like you can bribe your kids.  Just getting Wolfie a bunch of great gifts is not going to make up for the time you are neglecting him.  Dogs are social animals and need companionship to maintain the bond between you and him that is so critical in your relationship.

When you don’t give him the time needed to maintain your relationship, your dog will start to test you to see “what he can get away with”.  Let’s say that you have taught him that it is not OK to jump on people.  He will challenge you by taking a few “test jumps” to see what will happen.  If you are distracted with guests or out of town family members, you probably won’t react to his “breaking of your rules”.  You have now shown your dog that he can start to do whatever he wants.  You are not correcting, so why should he obey your rules?

When you leave Wolfie alone at home or in his crate for longer than normal, you are going to increase his need to play and get all of that pent up energy out.  Not being outside with him throwing the ball or going for a jog means that he will have to find another way to release all his “crazy”.  That normally means that he will be far more active in the house, demanding your attention and the attention of your guests.  Since you are already engaged in other activities, this normally means that he is going back in his crate or outside. 

With no bonding and interaction, Wolfie will have to escalate his actions to, “in his mind”, continue the bond you had established.  This normally means that he will start stealing things, showing you that he has them, and then run like a crazy dog around the house as you chase and scream at him.  This only puts you in a bad light as his leader and care giver.  It builds up your dog’s canine perception that he better be the boss and take charge.

If you notice, I am not painting a very rosy picture.  If you simply ignore or minimize the play and bonding time between you and your dog during the holidays, you will have an unpleasant holiday and a crazy, internally focused dog for the New Year.  Let’s make sure that this doesnt happen.

The answer is organization.  You must be organized enough to take the minimal free time you have during the holiday season and use it wisely.  Here are some simple steps:

• Write down your schedule for the upcoming week.  Put in your work, shopping, family obligations, church, parties, etc.  Now, find 45 minutes every day (broken down in 15 and 30 minutes) that you will devote to your “best friend”.  If you have to take some time away from another event, so be it.
• Make a promise to yourself and Wolfie that you will not miss those two times daily where it will be your bonding time.
• Make sure that those times are for you and Wolfie!  Do not be throwing the ball while you are on the phone. 
• After each play time, make sure that Wolfie is still with the family.  Do not simply put him back in the crate and say “Adios”.

As your dog’s leader and care giver, it is your responsibility to maintain a constant bond so that he will respect and obey you.  When you break that bond and trust, you are minimizing your relationship with him.  I know that you are going to tell me “But I am so busy with this, I am so busy with that!”  My response to you is to ask yourself if “this and that” is more important than Wolfie who gives you unconditional love, is always there for you, always wants to please, and always makes you feel great when you are down. I think you know the answer.

If you have any questions, we will be happy to help.  Please contact us at TheBest Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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Puppy Training 1 How Soon Can I Begin

How early can you begin to train a puppy? Even though you may not deliberately set out to train your puppy as early as seven or eight weeks, you can be guaranteed that he is learning how to best interact in your world as soon as you bring him home. He is learning from every interaction with you, and as your dogs owner, its your job to make sure that he is learning the right things!

As a dog trainer, the most common training questions that I hear from puppy owners are about house training, jumping up on people, and puppy biting. Usually the question is framed in this way: "How can I teach my puppy NOT to jump on people, bite me, or soil in the house?" These problems can definitely be solved, but we must first learn to rephrase our question: "What can I teach my puppy to do INSTEAD of jumping up, biting me, or soiling in the house?"

As you begin to identify positive behaviors that the puppy can perform that PREVENT the unwanted behaviors, you have taken the first step toward teaching your puppy to be the best family companion that he can be.

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When Training Always Keep it Slow

We South Floridians always like things fast. We always want to drive in the fast lane on the highway.  We love our fast food quick pickup lines. We read the Cliff Notes and not the Book.... This might be great for these things, but “doing it fast” is not how it works when building a relationship with our dog.

One of the biggest reasons that we have problems training our dog is that we are impatient and want the training to be fast. Our dog learns through the simple processes of consistency and repetition.  The last time I looked, neither of these had anything to do with “fast”. 

The best way to train our dog is to take "baby steps".  If our dog is having a hard time sitting, lets first make sure that he can stand next to us and look at us.  If he cant do that, there is now way that he wont be able to sit.  If our dog is misbehaving while in a room full of people, lets first make sure that he can behave in a quiet room just with us.

The secret to this process is to break down our training exercise into many "little steps".  Each step is obtainable and is required before we move on to the next "little step".  We will now be able to be successful because we have forced ourselves to take "baby steps" that we can easily manage and evaluate.

This will allow us to be consistent, repetitive; and succeed. Our dog will feel better because he will have the ability to obey us and we will gain much needed confidence. The relationship between us and your dog will be a happy, loving, and learning experience.

If you have any questions on dog training or any other canine behavior issue, please contact us at The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida. 

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Getting a Second Dog

My little dog seems so lonely.  I just hate leaving him home alone when I go do work.  I am thinking about getting a “little friend” for him.  Is this a good thing or a bad thing? 

As Dog Trainers, we are asked this question from time to time.  Our clients have to leave their dog home alone while they are at work or their dog seems to show signs of separation anxiety or they think that a second dog will be a good “play buddy” for their current dog.  These are some of the thoughts that go through our clients’ heads and there are a lot more, for sure. The honest answer is that you never completely know what will happen when you bring an additional dog into your family.

My Dog is Lonely:

The idea that a dog is naturally “lonely” when he is left by himself all day is not correct.  Most dogs sleep most of the day while you are at work.  Why do you think they are fully adrenalized and ready to “rock and roll” when you open the door at night?  You have just woken them up and they are now ready to play. 

My Dog has Separation Anxiety:

If your dog is showing signs of separation anxiety, a second dog is normally not the answer.  Separation anxiety, normally shown through destruction, defecation, and persistent barking; is caused by an issue between you and your dog.  You have not established the appropriate bond between you and your dog and your dog is trying to get to you or call you back.  This can easily be resolved through proper behavioral training and does not require the addition of a second dog.

My Dog Needs to be Socialized with Other Dogs:

If you believe that a second dog will help with your dog’s socialization skills, you don’t need to bring a new dog into the pack.  Think about taking your dog to a doggie day care a few times a week.  If you have some neighbors with nice dogs, arrange some play dates in a neutral area. 

If our client still really wants to get a second dog because they are “sure that the new dog will be great for the current one”, we ask them a very simple question:

Are you prepared to take care of another dog, period? 

Getting a second dog can’t be done to simply solve a perceived problem.  What if getting the second dog doesn’t solve the problem?  What then? 

Let’s say that they have assured me that they really want a second dog and will do whatever is necessary to make sure that both will feel happy and safe in their family.  No matter what it takes, they will be the “diligent parents”.

With that said, I council them on the appropriate method to pick and introduce a new dog into their family:

• Check Rescue Groups and the Local Humane Society for dogs you like.  Try and find a “middle of the pack” dog.  This is a dog that doesn’t run at you instantly when you approach the cage or their area.  This dog also won’t stay in the back of the cage or area.  This dog will respond when you address them and will come over to you in a calm and polite manner.  This is important when you introduce this dog to your current dog.
• Have the two dogs meet in a neutral area.  Many groups and Humane Societies have fenced in areas that are used for this purpose.  You can also use a neighbor’s fenced in back yard if that neighbor does not have any pets. 
• Have both dogs on leashes and bring them into the area from different locations.  Walk them around the area while slowly approaching each other.
• Bring them to about eight feet from each other and have both sit.  Once both display submissive body language, allow them to approach each other.   Do not force them.  Let them sniff each other for a few moments and then separate them and have them sit again.
• If all is still going well, walk them around the area again for a few minutes.  Have them sit and then release the leashes.  If either dog shows aggression towards the other, quickly step on the leashes and separate them.
• Continue to let them interact, watching closely for any signs of aggression of fearfulness.  If they eventually lie down and show passive tendencies towards each other, you may have a good match.
• Continue the introduction at your home.  Have both dogs meet on your front lawn.  Have them leashed and walk them around for a moment or two.  Now, allow them to approach and sniff.  Continue this for about fifteen to twenty minutes.
• Take your dog into the house and have him sit in an area away from the front door but with a view of the front door.  Bring the new dog into the house but do not walk directly towards your dog.
• Allow both dogs to sniff if they want. 
• Sit on the sofa with the dogs at opposite ends.  Still have them on their leashes and have them sitting or lying down.  After a few minutes, let the leashes go but do not remove them.
• Get up from the sofa and quietly walk around the room but never leave the room. 

There still is never an air tight guarantee that the two dogs will be “best buddies”, but you have done everything possible to properly introduce and jointly socialize them.  If you have any questions or need additional information, please contact us at The Best Dog Trainers inSouthern Florida.

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Clicker Training Dogs Dog Psychology for the Most Mischievous of Dogs

Looking for new ways to train your dog? Heard about clicker training dogs and curious about what it is? And what exactly is a clicker?

A clicker is a basically a tool used by dog owners to help train their dogs. It looks like a small box with a metal strip on it that makes a “clicking” noise when pushed down. Clicker training basically applies the age-old reward-and-punishment concept, albeit making it a tad easier by eventually teaching your dog to respond to the clicking noises and not the treats.

Not quite sure you get it? Okay, let’s paint a picture. Imagine that you are trying to teach your dog to stay. You let it follow you around a bit and then you turn around, put your hand up and say “stay” firmly while pressing the clicker. The dog wags his tail and keeps in stride when you start walking. You turn around once again, do the same hand signal, say “stay” while pressing the clicker and (gently!) force your dog into a sitting/resting position. You give it a treat.

Eventually, with enough repetition (and patience), your dog will begin to associate the command with the click and the treat. Soon, it will be responding to the sound of the clicker alone. Then later on, with some luck, you’ll even get your dog to respond to your command itself – without the use of clickers or treats.

So, to answer the question about what clicker training dogs is all about, it is basically dog psychology at its simplest and finest.

How about the success rate in training dogs using a clicker? Well, clicker training dogs is said to be efficient in teaching even the rowdiest pups around, so you are pretty much guaranteed to succeed.

Feel free to check out this resource if you need more information on training your dog.

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Preparing Your Dog for The Start of School

School time is just around the corner and the kids have been playing with our family dog all summer long.  What happens when our dog is left alone all day?

 

This same scenario happens every year and is something that is easily solved if you prepare for it now.  Two big problems that your dog could experience are boredom and separation anxiety.  Both of these could lead to inappropriate behavior such as destruction and continued, crazy barking.  Here are some tips to work on now before your kids go back to school:

 

Boredom

While dogs naturally sleep a lot during the day, when they wake up, they want something to do. Seek out toys and activities that can keep your dog entertained, even when youre not at home.

• Scatter food.  Dogs are natural foragers who enjoy sniffing out food on the ground. Before you leave the house, scatter a variety of foods -such as bits of raw vegetables, dog kibble, and other foods that wont attract wasps-around the yard or house. Hide a few ultra-tasty treats, too, so your dog spends extra time looking for them. Be sure to provide fresh, clean water to keep your dog well hydrated.
• Toys.  Dogs love toys, but they can get bored with or destroy them.  Buy high-quality, virtually indestructible puzzle toys that your dog will always enjoy, especially those that hold treats like the Classic KONG.  Every week or so, rotate what toys are available to your dog to give him something new and fun to hold his interest.

Separation Anxiety

With everyone away from the house all day, dogs left alone can become stressed. This stress can result in destructive behaviors and endless barking. Follow these tips to help reduce the potential anxiety of separation.

• Start early.  A few weeks before your children return to school, get your dog used to being alone.  Begin by separating him from the kids and the rest of the family.  For example, if you frequently take your dog with you to run errands, leave him at home instead.
• Pay less attention to your dog.  While your dog may be the center of attention when the kids are home all day, you need to change this scenario before they return to school so that he can adjust more quickly to the quiet time. About a week before school starts, pay increasingly less attention to your dog each day.
• Practice leaving the house.  Go through the motions of leaving the house.  Pick up your keys and go out the door, but then come right back in again. The dog will cease associating the routine of your leaving the house with your departure.  This will help him to be more relaxed when you actually leave.
• When you leave When the last person leaves the house for the day, dont confuse your dog by saying soothingly, "Dont worry, Wolfie-well be home soon. Be a good boy." If he is feeling concerned that youre leaving, your sweet-toned voice can make him think its okay to feel anxious. Dogs are animals that instinctively rely on a defined social structure, and so they expect their leaders to be strong when they leave the group. Therefore, ignore your dog for about 10 minutes before you leave.

As I mentioned earlier, it is important that you start this new routine BEFORE everyone starts back to school.  This allows you the time to work with your dog to acclimate him with your new “school-time” routime. As always, if you have any questions or need additional information, please contact us at Great South Florida Dog Trainers.

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Pit Bulls Attacking Guide Dogs Cont

Guide dogs in UK are constantly attacked by aggressive dogs

by Darren Jamieson on June 22, 2010

A recent report has shown an alarming spate of attacks on guide dogs in the UK from other dogs, sometimes without even a word of apology from the dog’s owner. The report has been published in the Veterinary Record this week, and it shows that over three guide dogs each month in the UK suffer attacks from other dogs – sometimes very ferocious attacks that require veterinary attention.

Of the dogs that are performing the unprovoked attacks on guide dogs, bull breeds of dogs account for 40% of all of the attacks. The data has been compiled from reports dating between Nov 2006 and Apr 2009.

Worse yet is the fact that 61% of the attacks on the guide dogs came when they were actually working, guiding their handlers. Most of the instances also included males, with 85.7% of the attacking dogs being male, and 62% of the guide dogs being attacked also being male.

Most guide dogs are either Labrador or Golden Retriever breeds – and are unable to defend themselves against aggressive attackers such as bulldogs,Staffordshire Bull Terriers and Pitbulls. 61% of the aggressive dogs that attacked guide dogs were not on the lead, and 46% of them were ‘bull’ breeds.

According to research, bull breeds only account for around 6% of the dogs in the UK, so 46% of attacks on guide dogs being attributed to bull breeds is worrying.

Following the attacks on the defenceless guide dogs, 49 of the dogs had to be rushed to the vets for treatment. 19% of the attacks also saw the guide dog’s handler, or a passer by, also injured by the aggressive dog.

Sadly, two of the guide dogs that were attacked could no longer continue to work as guide dogs following the incidents.

Perhaps the most disturbing aspect of the attacks was that in just six of the incidents did the owner of the aggressive dog actually apologise for the attack. Eight incidents saw the owners of the aggressive dogs flee the scene of the attack without even speaking to the handler of the guide dog.

Every guide dog in the UK costs approximately £50,000 to train and support for the duration of its life.

The authors of the research commented:

The financial implications of attacks on guide dogs should not be underestimated, especially if retraining or replacing a guide dog is necessary. Most importantly, a person in critical need of a guide dog may be without one for a period of time while waiting for a suitable replacement to be trained; this will impact on their quality of life and mobility.

These attacks are despicable and MUST STOP!!!

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Dog Training Tips to Keep Your Dog from Running Through The Door Ahead of You

My dog always runs through the door ahead of me!  I can just be walking from the kitchen to the living room and “boom” he has to shoot past me like we are in a drag race.  This is just crazy!  What is going on here?

This is a natural canine behavior for dogs who think they are the boss.  In your dogs world, the leader, the boss, must always be out front to check out that everything is safe for everyone else.  As you go from room to room, that is a new place and a new opportunity for your dog to do his job and make sure everything is safe for you.  As I mentioned earlier, this action demonstrates that your dog thinks he is the leader.  Here are some quick and easy steps you can perform to stop your dog’s “door drag race”:

• Put a leash on your dog and slowly approach the door.
• Stop when you are about two feet from the door and tell him to sit and wait.
• Slowly open the door.  As you are doing this, keep an eye on your dog to make sure he is not getting ready to bolt through the door.  If you see that he is getting ready to move or if he has already moved out of his Sit/Wait position, correct him and have him return to the Sit/Wait position.
• Continue to open the door.  Once it is completely open, slowly and calmly step through the doorway.
• Make sure that your dog has not moved for several seconds.  Now invite him through the door to be with you.
• Once your dog is in the room with you, have him sit next to you for several seconds.  Give him some praise “Good puppy!” for obeying you.
• You are now done.  You and your dog can now do whatever you want.

You will be amazed on how this will turn a normally crazy time into a quiet and respectful moment!  If you have any questions or need additional dog training information, please contact us at The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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