Fear of Other Dogs in the Elivator

I am down here in Pompano Beach for the winter from my farm in upstate New York.  We are renting a great condo in a high rise on the beach.  The problem is that my dog is scared to go in the elevator whenever there is another dog there.  This is a “very pet friendly” building.  I am not walking up and down twenty flights of stairs every time I need to take him out.  What can I do?

Let me tell you one thing for sure.  You dont want to force your dog into a situation where he is placed in a fight or flight mode in a confined environment (like an elevator). 

You dont want to let the other dog in the elevator and do something like move to the corner and hold him on a very tight leash or pick him up and firmly hold him.  When you are doing these things, you are placing your dog in an unsafe situation.

As the person who is responsible for your dog’s wellbeing, you never want to put him in a situation where he feels unsafe and feels that you don’t have the ability to provide him security.  You are now "telling" your dog that you are a bad leader and dont have the ability to keep him safe.  This means that he will step up to be the leader and will take a more aggressive stance in the elevator (bad!).

We must understand that as the protector (i.e. parent), it is our biggest responsibility to keep our dog safe.  Sometimes, the best way to maintain safety is to avoid unsafe situations.  This is not "running away", it is simply good management.  With this in mind, here are my suggestions for the elevator situation.

• If you are about to enter the elevator and you see that there is another dog in the elevator, do not enter.  Mention that your is a little fearful of dogs in the elevator and you want to wait for the next one.  This, again will show that you are a responsible dog owner to your neighbors and that you are a good leader and care giver to your dog.
• If you are in the elevator and someone with a dog starts to enter, politely mention that your dog is a little fearful of other dogs when in the elevator.  Since you dont want an incident in such a closed space, could they please wait for the next elevator.  If they agree, thank them.  If they still step into the elevator, excuse yourself and get out of the elevator.  If there are other people in the elevator, they will see that you are a responsible dog owner, no matter which outcome occurred.  You will also show Wolfie that you are keeping him safe.

Yes, I know that it might take you a few more minutes to go up and down the elevator, but the extra few minutes will do wonders in building your relationship with your dog and your neighbors.  If you have questions or need additional information, please contact us at The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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How dogs think

Does this sound familiar? You are leaving the house. You look at your dog and say:

“Fluffy, if you’re a good dog while I’m gone and stay off the couch, I’ll give you a cookie when I get home”.




With a small child this might work. Clear instruction along with the promise of a reward might get a child to listen. But Fluffy is a dog.

And Fluffy thinks:

I know my name is Fluffy. And I know your name is Mommy. And of course I know what a cookie is.
Now the couch is that comfortable thing l like to lie on. And when you leave home I’m loose to do whatever I want. So I must be the pack leader. And as the pack leader I can lay down wherever I want. You get all upset about me being there, but you gave me the right to lie where I want.
By the way you sure are a funny looking dog Mommy. And you don’t know how to run our pack. Good thing I’m here to be in charge.

So when you come home, Fluffy is on the couch.

Fluffy is a pack animal, and no matter how hard you try to change him, he lives his life by pack rules.

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Managing Your Puppy’s Play with Other Puppies

We have had our very first puppy for about a month now and I am starting to let him play with neighbor puppies and other dogs.  Sometimes it looks like they are really trying to hurt each other.  How do I know they are just playing or if something bad is happening?

Socialization is a very important part of your puppy’s life experience.  Your puppy’s play with other dogs and puppies allows him to reinforce and establish his communication skills, canine interaction, and physical well being. 

The one thing that you have to understand is that your puppy lives in a “canine world” of absolutes and clear social roles.  There is the leader and there are the followers.  There are things you can do and things you can’t do.  Everything is absolute and unambiguous.  These are the types of games that puppies play in order to build experience and understand their social experience.

Puppies play games such as:

•  “Follow the Leader” where the leader is chased by the rest of the puppies (the pack).  Eventually the leader stops and a new leader takes over.  That puppy now takes off with a flash while the rest of the group chases him. 
• Many times two puppies will play “Tag, You’re It!” where one chases the other until the follower jumps on the leader and sometimes gives a little nip.  The act of “tagging” exchanges roles where the leader becomes the follower and the follower becomes the leader.
• “King of the Hill” is another game that puppies play where one puppy gets to the top of something (like a chair) and defends it by posturing, nipping, and barking.  The other puppies might challenge by getting close, but they will always back off.  Eventually the puppy on top will jump off and a new puppy will become the leader or “king”.

Even though these are all activities that demonstrate dominance or submission, they are still only games.  Just like we used to play games like Cowboys and Indians, we understood that they were just games.  Our puppies also understand that these are just games.  After about thirty or forty minutes, they will all be drinking out of the same water bowl and then fall asleep, exhausted, by each other.   

So we should encourage and let our puppies play these games.  With this said, there are a few precautions that we should take to make sure that everything stays safe:

• Have puppies of the same size play with each other.  When a big puppy rushes up to a small puppy, it might scare and intimidate the smaller.  This could create a fearful little dog that might later become dog aggressive.
• We suggest playing outside in an enclosed, grassy area.  This allows them the most freedom to run and not “get into trouble”.
• If one puppy is becoming fearful (tail between legs), remove him from the main play area.  Let him watch from a safe distance and allow him to decide if and when he might want to join the group.
• Watch the puppies very closely.  If any puppy is constantly jumping on another and the other is whining, growling, or nipping with no release, the play has escalated too far.  It is now time to separate the two for five minutes.  If they are calm after that, resume play.
• Always have water available.  This allows for proper hydration and provides for a “quick break” in the games.

We all want to be good “doggie parents” and to allow our puppies to become well socialized.  Allowing our puppies to play together is a large part of the equation.  Unfortunately the line between exuberant, healthy play and aggressive bullying is quite fine.  If you are ever unsure about a situation, remove your puppy and let things start again.  If you have any questions, please contact us at The Best Dog Trainers in South Florida.

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Competition Training Managing Handler Nerves in Dog Sport Competition

Handler nerves can destroy a performance, even when the handler and dog have engaged in adequate pre-trial training. Some dogs are very sensitive to the handler, and they can quickly lose confidence and focus if the handler becomes nervous during competition. Although handler nerves can affect performance in any venue, I compete in both AKC events and in schutzhund, and my nerves have NEVER been as bad there as they are in schutzhund style events. I have gotten so that I almost hate to compete in schutzhund because of the nerves both before and during the performance.

Some exhibitors may take a light drink prior to competition to calm nerves. I keep threatening to drink before a performance, but strangely enough I havent done it yet. Im too afraid that my already garbled brain will become even more garbled. Some alternate suggestions for reducing handler nervousness can be found below.

PRIOR TO COMPETITION

1. Train beyond adequate. Your dog should be able to perform each exercise at 90-95% correct in practice before you consider competition. That is nine successive times out of ten that your dog performs correctly.

2. Build procedural and muscle memory for yourself. Leave your dog out of it and ask a dog savvy friend to be your dog to go through the pattern ad nauseum. At first your friend should be an obedient dog ... attentive, always stopping properly and responding properly, but after you are sure you know the pattern, ask your friend to misbehave, and then practice how you will handle the OOPS factor. Also, your friend should be quick to let you know that you have not praised when you can.

One of the problems with schutzhund trialing is that we may only trial once at each level ... not enough to become familiar with the patterns and all of the rules, unlike AKC obedience where you MUST compete at least three times to earn a title. Not to mention the fact that the rules have changed quite a bit over the last few years! Its hard to be confident on the field if you dont REALLY know the procedure or the rules. Get out there and trial! Work with others who are serious about competition to set up mock trials. Use mock trials to identify problem areas, not to try to conduct full-blown training sessions.

Also, in my opinion, schutzhund scoring is a LOT more subjective than AKC judging, and schutzhund judges have an unusual propensity for changing the performance parameters to their liking ... hence the "ask the judge" session at the draw party. This adds to the stress on the handler, even when the handler knows the rules. Theres not much you can do about this, but be aware of it and understand that this may be a source of stress for you.

2. Vary reinforcement patterns. For every 5 times that you practice heeling in a non-pattern on the schutzhund field or anywhere else, work the pattern once. For every 5 times you work the pattern, praise and treat only at the end of each exercise once, as if in a trial. For every 5 times that you praise and treat only between exercises, withhold praise and treat until completing several exercises.

Sometimes we get in the habit of reinforcing too often, and we dont build the dogs tolerance for continued performance without immediate reinforcement. When you move toward more variable reinforcement for extended behavior, the paypoff should be bigger.

3. Take your training on the road. Remember to practice in MANY locations, not just on a a field. Work in a parking lot, a park (with lots of squirrels), at a pet store beside the hamster cages. Generalizing training is not about perfectly replicating the trial field ... its about teaching the dog FOCUS regardless of where you are. Once a dog knows a behavior in his home environment, its time to train it in multiple locations. Be prepared to reinforce heavily for correct behavior in a new context, until the dog acclimates to the new environment.

DURING COMPETITION

Before you begin, congratulate yourself on participating in competition. United Doberman Club member Laura Baugh offers this inspiring advice,

" Its an achievement being here. No matter what happens today, I have worked with my dog to the point at which I felt comfortable taking him into an enormous multi-acre unfenced field, surrounded by wildlife in woods and more unfenced fields, removing the leash and asking him to work with me in the presence of unlimited freedom and distractions. We have developed a relationship advanced enough that I and others had good reason to think this was possible. Even if today is the day that something goes wrong, I can look back at why Im even here and know that, well, today was something going wrong, a deviation from the norm, because look how far weve come together."

1. Defrock the judge. If you are intimidated by the judge, like I often am, go on the field and imagine the judge with no clothes on, or with a funny hat, or with a booger hanging from his or her nose. If you are a Harry Potter fan, youll know what I mean when I say consider the judge a bogart. If you can laugh at him, he suddenly becomes much less intimidating! I often find some judges to be very rigid and intimidating, and boy it has traveled right down the leash!

2. Meditate between each exercise. Practice taking a deep breath and meditating for 3 seconds before starting an exercise. Tell yourself this is the "running stand" or this is the "sit in motion". You can practice this without a dog or dog friend. The point is to build the procedural memory so that when you hear the exercise description in your head, you have an automatic visualization of the entire exercise. For example: This is the "SIT IN MOTION". Im going to walk 12 paces, command sit, continue 30 paces, turn to face dog, wait 3 seconds, return to dog. You are NOT thinking about what your dog is going to do ... only what YOU are going to do. If your training has been beyond adequate, then as long as you do your job, your dog will do his job!

3. Let each exercise stand alone. Just because you or your dog have blown one exercise doesnt mean that you wont nail the next. Smile, let your dog know that you are pleased with him, and focus for the next exercise.

4. Make it fun. Focus on making this performance FUN for the dog. After all, this is not about world peace ... it is a dog sport competition. Your dogs long-term enjoyment of the work is much more important than a single competition or score.

5. Pray. I pray to God to help me do the best I can do and support my dog to the best of my ability. Sometimes turning it over to a higher authority can help ease the nerves and allow "what will be will be".

AFTER COMPETITION

Analyze your performance. Every time that I compete I learn something new about my dog and about trialing. Mistakes I have made: wearing sunglasses that I dont normally wear in training(dog couldnt see my eyes!), mixing up the pattern, not training my dog for a right arm sleeve presentation, inadequate proofing of stays prior to competition, giving a command in a totally unfamiliar voice, pulling my dog off the track ... I could go on and on. But the important thing is to build your experience so that you hopefully avoid those mistakes in the future.

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