Dog Training Two Approaches

Are you interested in a Career in Dog Training, or would like to become a Dog Trainer?

Do you desire to train your canine friend? Then, as you become a dog trainer, you have to choose between 2 equally effective methods to dog teaching: classical and operant conditioning.

Classical conditioning is a subject of association. Basically, you will be required to introduce motivators to your dog, to train him to response in a certain way when he comes across specific motivators. For instance, ringing a bell right before feeding him a meal will make him anticipate a meal every time he perceives the sound of a bell ring. Treating him a dog treat each time he turns over on the floor will in due course make him turn over on the floor when shown a dog treat.

Classical conditioning is said to be the more effective of the 2 methods in dog teaching.

Though, operant conditioning is a very close substitute.

Operant conditioning involves the introduction of negative or positive fortifications throughout the program of dog teaching. Positive fortifications are rewards you will give for your pet whenever he does anything approving. The thought is to educate your pet to keep on doing these achievements so that he can get his rewards. Negative fortifications are castigations inflicted upon the pet whenever he does anything unfavorable.

Some dog trainers would say that positive fortifications should be preferred over negative fortifications. Who would wish to see his pet be in pain, after all?

Though, some dog types take action better to negative fortifications rather than positive fortifications. English bulldogs, pugs and spitzes, for instance, are more sensitive to education when punished for their errors.

Negative fortifications, on the other hand, can be devastating for specific dog breeds. A German Shepherd, once punished, may resent his master forever. A Shih Tzu can cut his liking for a master who commences negative fortifications all through his training. The same goes for a Pomeranian.

Inexperienced at dog teaching or the Career in Dog Training?

It is sensible to take the classical conditioning course first because it is undemanding to pull off.

A career in Dog Training, or just the desire to become a dog trainer entails serious consideration.

If you would like to learn more about a career in dog training or how to become a dog trainer, click on Dog Training Career .OR Become a Dog Trainer

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Dog Behaviour Training

At some point in time all of us dog owners need to administer some dog behavior training. This is sometimes called "behavior modificaton" and it basically means solving your dogs behavior problems.

There are loads of dog behavior problems, they can affect all dog breeds, at any time throughout your dogs life. Ive listed some of the more common dog behavior problems below, and importantly some proven dog behavior training methods to correct them. I will continue to add to this resource over the next few months. Hopefully this information proves to be a valuable resource for you - and your dog. 

I expand further on these rules within the specific dog behavior problems listed below.

• A great number of puppy and dog behavioral problems are the result of separation anxiety.
• Many behavior problems (such as barking, biting and digging) stem from a lack of communication, or miscommunication between you the owner and your dog. Simply put, your dog is not aware of what is expected of him/her (Ill just say him from now on to make it easier).
• Applying some proper obedience training at an early stage (the earlier the better!) is a most effective technique to correct any behavior problems, and also to prevent any future problems. The fact that you are reading this page possibly means it is too late for this tip!
• Set boundaries of acceptable and unacceptable behavior for your dogs, and stick to them. Be consistent, make it simple for your dog:
  • Be clear that you are always the alpha dog or leader in your owner-dog relationship.
  • Make it clear to him what is unacceptable behavior - every time.
  • Make it clear to him what is acceptable behavior - every time.
• Even though it may seem as though your dog is behaving poorly to spite you or annoy you this is not the case. In the vast majority of dog behavior problems there will be a cause or trigger which sparks the behavior. Identifying these triggers is the crucial first step towards solving the problem.
• Be careful you are not inadvertently rewarding the very behavior you are trying to eliminate. An example of this would be if your dog is barking excessively outside, you then go to the door and call him inside. Youre encouraging and rewarding the behavior, and therefore he is sure to do it again!.

Dog Behavior Training Can Make An
Enormous Difference To Your Dogs Life

Its a sad fact of life that the vast majority of dogs that end up in animal shelters (or worse) are there because of a bad behavioral problem. It doesnt have to be this way, most problems (like aggression and destructive behavior) are at the very least manageable, through proper dog behavior training.

If you consistently apply the proper training techniques and add some commitment and patience, you are sure to achieve pleasing results with your dog. 

reference;

http://www.dog-obedience-training-review.com/dog-behavior-training.html

see also;

http://web2mall.blogspot.com

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The Brittany and the Parakeet

I called my sister the other night to wish her a belated birthday. We talked, as we occasionally do, about growing up. I asked if she read the blog “Butchie’s Paper Route. She then reminded me some other family dog stories.

When I was about 4 and my sister was about 2 our Dad decided it was time to get a family dog again. He found a Brittany Spaniel. Her name was Dozie (pronounced doozie) from combining our names, Doug and Suzie. I don’t think Dad saw this as prophetic. But it was.

I personally do not believe any dog is dumb. I tell people if you know someone with a dumb dog, what you really know is someone with a smart dog who’s figured out acting dumb pays well in their home. I don’t think Dozie was dumb but she was flighty and absent minded.

We lived in Wichita at the time. The people next door owned a Boston Terrier. The dogs were good friends and their favorite activity was chase. Back then no one had fences so the dogs would chase each other around the Boston’s house. Dozie was usually the chaser, meaning that the Boston was probably the dominant dog.

The Boston was much smaller than a Dozie. About the third time around the house he would run under the gas meter. This was the old fashion kind with the big body that came out of the ground between two pipes. He could make it under the body. Dozie would follow him. But she was too big to make it so would run head first into the meter, knocking her woozy.

A couple of years later we moved to Arlington Texas. We added a parakeet to the household. His name was Sweetie Pie.

Sweetie Pie soon learned to exactly mimic my father’s whistle, which Dad used to recall Dozie.

Periodically you would hear that whistle. And Dozie would dutifully run to the dining room where he was kept. She then would frantically look for Dad, who was often at work. Sweetie Pie then would add insult to injury by loudly declaring “Dozie is a dirty bird.” She would look at the bird in disgust and then go back to whatever she had been doing.

Sadly I don’t have a picture of a Brittany to put with this blog. I kind of wish I did. I don’t think there is a prettier dog than an orange and white Brittany.

Doug

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Tracking Log 20141019 Asher

Time Laid: 9:15 AM Time Worked: 9:45 AM
Distance: 20 yards
Weather: 54°F FEELS LIKE 54° Sunny
  Wind: NW at 7 mph
  Humidity: 59%
  UV Index: 3 - Moderate
  Pressure: 30.13 in
  Dew Point: 40°
  Visibility: 10.0 mi

Article track laid just north of the dog run blockage fence.  Wind was somewhat diminished in this location.  Articles at 10, 15, and 20 yards. All articles were large leather wallets, similar to what we have been using in the house.

Asher was double-collared with prong and fur saver, one six-foot leather leash.

Track was heavily baited throughout.

Asher started nicely, although a little fast.  I had to stop him for each article, and the down was difficult on the first one especially.  Let him down for an extended period on each article, stroking and talking to him.  Feeding him in the down position.

No scoring for this exercise as it was his first article indication training exercise outside of the house.

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Puppy Training 3 Management Routines as a Training Tool

Dogs thrive on routine. Sometimes unwanted behaviors can be prevented by adopting regular routines that dogs become accustomed to. While training specific behaviors is important in molding a young dog into a great companion, management also plays a major role.

Roscoe, a 17-week old chocolate Labrador Retriever, arrives at TLC Dog Training Puppy Boot Camp for an intensive two-week training adventure. Roscoe is a sweet puppy, but he is very rowdy, and he must touch everyone that he meets with his BIG paws. Roscoe lives with a family with two boys, ages 7 and 10. The adults in Roscoes family have had Labradors before, and they are committed to teaching Roscoe how to be great family companion, but sometimes lack the time and the expertise to deal with rowdy Roscoes less than stellar behavior.

At TLC Dog Training, Roscoe lives in a crate in the house. When he comes into the main living area, he is on leash and closely supervised so that he doesnt have an opportunity to have a potty accident. He also has a large 10 x 10 outdoor pen, complete with a cot for sunning. Mornings begin around 7:00 a.m., when Roscoe and as many as two other dogs also in for training are turned outside for their morning bathroom break.

While the dogs are outside, trainer Leslie Carpenter prepares the dogs training treats for the morning training sessions. Leslie returns the dogs to their crates after 20 minutes, and she then takes each dog from his or her crate and works each dog. Puppies like Roscoe train for about 10 - 15 minutes, while dogs older than 6 months may train for 20-30 minutes.

Morning training sessions include walks along a country lane with many distractions such as horses, other dogs, slow moving cars, and scents of wildlife. Roscoe will learn to sit quietly before he may leave his crate or pen, to sit quietly for greeting, and to sit quietly before proceeding through a gate. At first he doesnt know enough to wait in a doorway while Leslie walks through first, but over the two-week training period, he will gradually learn that "SIT" means sit and stay until he is told to do something else like "LETS GO" through the gate, and "DOWN" means down and stay until he is released or asked to do something else. Roscoe will also learn to come when called and to walk on a loose leash.

After the training sessions, Roscoe and the other dogs return to their crates to cogitate on what they have learned while Leslie prepares their breakfast. Fifteen to twenty minutes after the dogs return to their crates following training, Leslie feeds them in their crates and gives them about 20 minutes to eat. Then she picks up their bowls and takes them to their outside runs to enjoy the remainder of the morning.

Young puppies like Roscoe need to be fed three times per day, so about 12:00 p.m., Leslie returns the puppies to their crates and feeds them their noon meal. Older dogs receive a biscuit and remain outdoors to enjoy the Carolina sun. About twenty minutes after eating, the puppies return to their outdoor runs.

Around 4:00 p.m. Leslie prepares the afternoon training treats. Roscoe and the other dogs return to their crates and are then worked one-by-one in their afternoon training sessions. As each dog completes his afternoong training session, he returns to his crate to reflect on his training session. About 20-30 minutes after training, Leslie feeds each dog his evening ration.

The dogs then go outside for an individual romp in the paddock, followed by lounging time on the cot in their individual pens. Since Roscoes owners have indicated that they would like for him to have interactive playtime with other dogs, he and a compatible canine companion are given about 30 minutes for interactive playtime in the paddock.

Roscoe and his friend come into the house around 9:00 p.m. for final biscuits and bedtime.

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Adult Dog Training 3 Ways to stop Jumping Up

Adult Dog Training - 3 Ways to stop Jumping Up

So youve been given or have aquired somehow, an adult dog.
Often a big problem can be jumping up.

Dogs are extremely sociable creatures and want to see your face or be where you are.
Jumping can simply be a way to get closer to the face.

There are 3 good ways to stop jumping up that I am going to address;

1. The Preventing Knee


As your dog is just about to jump up, put your knee up to stop them. This makes it uncomfortable for them and teaches them that this is not a good idea.
This is NOT my favourite. I have a large Bullmastiff puppy and when I tried this...well, I have some scars on my legs you wouldnt believe.
Not a practical method for big dogs !

2. The Spray

This method entails having a spray cannister filled with either water or a water / vinegar mix.
It is best to use this with a word such as "
OFF !".
A 5 minute session with this each day may be all your dog needs to associate the unpleasant spray with the word OFF and the fact that these come when he jumps up.
Thos method does work well except on those dogs who literally go balistic when you spray them. My Bullmastiff runs around the house like a crazy dog when she gets sprayed...not good for an almost 100lb dog !

3. The Lead technique

By far my favourite so far.
This one just needs you to put the dogs lead on. Where the lead runs from the neck and touches the ground, step on it (the lead not the dog..). This makes it impossible for the dog to jump.
Remember to praise extensively when your dog doesnt try to jump.

One last word;
Dogs are gamblers. Often if you can carry treats around with you and treat when they have done very well, the dog will remember that this happens and gamble on you having treats !

Good Luck !

Lincoln

Adult Dog Training

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Training a deaf dog Part 3

Simba has now reached a plateau in his training. He has been coming in once a week for almost two months.

It is Simba who has decided that his training is staying on the plateau rather than advancing. He knows what we are doing and has figured out how things work. But like all dogs he has alpha drive that makes him resistant to giving up power unless he is convinced that he needs to respect his pack leader.

Simba is the first deaf dog I have worked with that did not start as a puppy or was pure herding breed or mix. And since he has terrier in his mix, he is counter training.

When training a deaf dog to just hand signals, we are dependent on the dog looking to see the hand sign to obey. We know that Simba has wider vision than a human. What we don’t know is exactly how wide it is.

When I start a dog as a puppy I have a blank sheet of paper to write on. So we establish looking at the owner for direction at the time in a dog’s life when pleasing its human is the most important value the dog has. So getting that puppy to constantly look at his human is easy.

In herding dogs, their genetic makeup includes a natural tendency to constantly look at the human for direction. This is one of the reasons that people often own a deaf herding dog that they do not know is deaf. The dog has learned to read the humans body language for direction.

So people have a dog that obeys when it is looking at them, but not when the dog cannot see them. They do not make the connection. They assume the dog is not obeying when in fact it just didn’t see them to “hear” what they were saying.

But with Simba only being part herding dog I have noticed that he does not look at his human as much a pure herding breed would do. And since he did not start as a puppy we could not imprint looking for directions at the start.

If we give a command by hand sign that he does not see, it would not be fair to correct him for ignoring the command. I suspect that Simba is taking unfair advantage of us.

If he does not think we are sure he saw the hand sign, he can ignore it knowing that he is not likely to be corrected. This allows him to be selective in obeying commands.

One of the reasons I suspect this is behavior that I saw in his last session. Simba was taken outside on a 20 foot line. He was given the command “come on.” That meant that he could be twenty feet in front of, behind or either side of her. But the line is always slack.

To make sure the dog is paying attention, we walk and turn randomly rather than in a straight line. If the dog is not paying attention when you get to the end of the line, the dog gets gently corrected.

Simba was perfect the whole time. Mom would turn and go the other direction. There were numerous times where it was clear that Simba did not see her turn. But every single time he would turn before the line came off the ground.

Then I noticed when he turned he would know exactly where she would be. He did not have to look for her, he knew.

He was tracking her by scent. He doesn’t have to look for her; he already knows where she is at. So he has figured out how not to take corrections for not paying attention. Therefore when he is in a position to ignore hand signals without a correction happening automatically, he takes advantage of her sense of fair play.

This is going to change soon. Simba does not know this, but he is getting a vibrating collar for Christmas. The first thing he will learn is to look for her immediately whenever he feels two short vibrations. Two taps will mean look at me for directions. And if he doesn’t look there won’t be any doubt he “heard” the look at me command so he will be fairly corrected.

I may be training Simba, but Simba is teaching me things too.

Doug

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